The Far East

[Guy M]

For the second year, we have come to Kato Zakros in the East - a four hour drive from Apokoronos.

Like last year, i’n struck by the differences:

Many fewer tourists and in general roads are not so full.
Much drier
Seems cheaper - we had a really excellent lunch at Retro in Palaiokastro where everything was fresh, there were no other customers and bill was much less than we’d have in Apokoronos; same thing was true at a fish taverna last night.
Beaches and mountains are very spectacular.

If anything, it reminds me of Western Crete 20 years ago. I wonder what it is like to live here - what winter is like, for example.

I’m quite tempted - I imagine going slowly mad in this gentle, quiet place away from the nonsense of the World.

[bobscott]

Hi guy. You said "I’m quite tempted - I imagine going slowly mad in this gentle, quiet place away from the nonsense of the World."

It's not so much going mad; just enjoying the oh so relaxed life-style. We came here 22 years ago for 'peace of mind' and we have had that in spades (even dealing with Greek bureaucracy!!). Long may it continue. Bob.

[Mixos]

I remember you posting about your trip to Kato Zakros last summer, Guy, and how much you said you enjoyed the area. Those of us who live in "the far east", either full or part time, are very happy with the slower pace of life, emptier roads and comparative lack of tourists. Yes it's a fair bit drier than the west, but boy when it rains, it rains. The winter months can be quite gloomy and cold at times, but that's the same all over Crete. I haven't been back to Apokoronos or the Chania area for about 20 years, but even then it was busier than the Sitia region is now -- so by all means come and "go slowly mad in this gentle, quiet place." But don't tell too many others about it!

[Kilkis]

Before selling up I would go and stay there for a few weeks in February and see what you think. I could happily live in Siteia. I could happily stay somewhere like Zakros for a week or so. Live there? No way.

Warwick

[Guy M]

Our house in Apokoronos is what estate agents call ‘a unique opportunity’ ie unsellable. The only people who will have it after us are our children. Might be nice for them to have taken it over while we move completely from the U.K. to somewhere in the East - then we could have a bit of both. But I guess that’s greedy.

[Kilkis]

...while we move completely from the U.K. to somewhere in the East...

I like the comment.

Warwick

[Maud]

Two houses? - That sounds a good option to me Guy!

We know a German chap who visits Crete twice a year for a couple of months at a time. He has been doing this for over 20 years. On each visit he spends a month in Kato Zakros and a month on the SW coast. - His passions are walking, archaeology and botany and he never gets bored. He is still working (a university lecturer....hence the long holidays), but has promised himself that when he retires he is going to rent a house in both locations and live on Crete all year round.

We love Kato Zakros......even with the few coach loads of tourists that visit there these days! Over recent years we have only been there in May and October, but many years ago we used to visit it for a few days in August as well. From what you say, it still isn’t over run with tourism in August? Did you venture down to Xerokambos? It is worth a visit for the view as you drive down to the village.

We love Hania, as it is such a beautiful town, but we seldom go there now, apart to visit Greek friends. - It is too busy. Sitia on the other hand feels far more like a ‘proper working Greek town.’ We find the people in the East seem to be even more laid back than the residents of the West. - When I stalled our car on a roundabout in Sitia, the other drivers all laughed ‘with’ me. - No sounding of horns, or shrugging of shoulders!

We think the East has got a lot going for it!

[ros21m]

I've just returned from a 3 night trip to Zakros! I live almost at the centre of Crete.

[Kilkis]

...We love Hania, as it is such a beautiful town, but we seldom go there now, ... - It is too busy.

Completely agree and I only live about 15 km from the centre. Apart from necessary visits, e.g. to visit a doctor, accountant etc, I probably go into the centre two or three times per year and that is usually because I have visitors who want to go there.

Warwick

[Guy M]

I've just returned from a 3 night trip to Zakros! I live almost at the centre of Crete.

Hi Ros. Where did you stay in Zakros? We are at Yianni’s Retreat, 800m above Kato Zakros. This is a lovely, calm place with beautiful gardens and simple rooms with a fridge, two hob cooker and basic provisions - bread, coffee, Cretan treats and vegetables. Highly recommended.

[Guy M]

...We love Hania, as it is such a beautiful town, but we seldom go there now, ... - It is too busy.

Completely agree and I only live about 15 km from the centre. Apart from necessary visits, e.g. to visit a doctor, accountant etc, I probably go into the centre two or three times per year and that is usually because I have visitors who want to go there.

Warwick

Chania in summer is dispiritingly full.

My family played an elaborate trick on me on my birthday last August. We went to Chania for lunch and then walked to the harbour. My wife said ‘there’s a dress I want to look at; you wait here at the harbour with Rebecca (our older daughter) and i’ll go with Hannah (our younger daughter).’ When they came back 30 minutes later, Hannah said ‘oh, I’ve forgotten my bag in the dress shop - let’s go and get it’. So we walked down an alley and up some stairs into a room. I thought ‘oh no, we’ve come to a dress maker - this isn’t going to be cheap’. Then I looked around and said ‘so where’s the dressmaker’. Then they laughed and explained that there was no dressmaker and no dress, but this was the entrance to a beautiful apartment they had secretly booked for the night - all our bags were waiting there (they’d run to the car to get them). The only way to visit Chania in high summer.

I hope they are plotting something this year.

[peebee]

Chania in summer is dispiritingly full.

I don't go into the centre of Chania often, probably only 3 or 4 times this year, nearly always on my motorcycle.
Personally, I am happy to see it is crowded and to see local businesses, tourist establishments and tavernas/ restaurants busy.
It would be pretty depressing to see the place empty and shops boarded up.

[Kilkis]

I also tend to use my motorbike to go in, Peebee. I like the fact that they have created all these reserved parking spaces for me. I agree that I have no wish to see the centre of Chania deserted and I am happy if the businesses are doing well but I just don't want to be part of the madding crowd. It will be better from the end of August when the temperature drops a bit and, more importantly, the Athenians have all gone home

Warwick

[bobscott]

Chania in summer is dispiritingly full.

Personally, I am happy to see it is crowded and to see local businesses, tourist establishments and tavernas/ restaurants busy.
It would be pretty depressing to see the place empty and shops boarded up.

Sounds just like Gloucester on a busy day! Bob.

[Maud]

The businesses in Hania need the tourists. Nobody would want to see them without customers. Sadly it is like everything else in life......there is a happy medium. - I see more cruise liners are being banned from Venice this week! Nobody here would want to see Hania ruined by excess tourism.

Thank goodness that those of us who love this island, and know where to escape to for peace and quiet continue to find our quiet locations. We only have to visit busy places for ‘services’ etc. - We had to spend a week in Iraklio in May and it made us really appreciate our own little ‘bolt hole!’ ! I would share it with everyone else on here......but then it would not be the same! (Or suit everyone come to that!).