October sees the last charter flights going back to the UK and Europe and from November to March Crete returns to its old rhythms of life. Hotels, tavernas, cafes and bars all close down in the resorts.
Nightlife changes from the summer scene of beach bars and outdoor tavernas to trendy indoor town cafes and restaurants, and cozy village cafeneons and tavernas with wood-burning stoves or open fireplaces.
Cretans turn to their fields and gather their olive and orange harvests. Nearly every Cretan family owns at least one olive grove on the island. Weekends are often spent away from the towns as people head for their 'horio' (village) to gather their olives, or to visit relatives.
The towns are still very much alive and busy in the winter as the locals go about their daily business. On the roads there are numerous pick-up trucks loaded with olives, firewood or livestock as well as the usual traffic, but with hardly a hire-car in sight.
The weather is changeable. November and December tend to be reasonably mild, with January and February generally the coldest months. Crete has some very heavy rainfall and spectacular storms during the winter months, but invariably the sun always comes out at some point and there are glorious warm sunny days too. Temperatures vary; at sea level it can be as low as 4oC or as high as 20oC plus. There are regular snowfalls in the mountain villages and the White Mountains are snow-covered from November to April. If you are in Crete in winter a trip up to the snow is a must.
Hotels in the towns stay open during the winter months but there is little winter tourism. There are no direct flights to the island from Europe from November to March but there are regular domestic flights from Athens.
Getting to Crete In Winter
Flights There are daily flights throughout the year to and from Athens with Olympic Airlines and Aegean Airlines to both Heraklion and Chania. Both offer cheaper fares if you book in advance, and online with their etickets. Fares from 44 Euros each way, including all taxes. Normal return fares cost in the region of 160 Euros return Athens to Crete. Olympic Airways offer cheaper add-on fares if you book an Olympic flight from another country, e.g. London/Athens/Chania. Look out for their special winter offers on off-peak winter dates. (Usually November and January/ February/March).
Ferry Ferry services run daily to and from Piraeus to Chania and Heraklion throughout the year. Rethymnon Service is 3 times per week during the winter months.
ANEK lines run an overnight services to and from Piraeus/Heraklion and Piraeus/Chania daily (approx 9 hour sailings) and Piraeus/Rethymno/Piraeus 3 times a week.
Minoan Lines run an overnight service to and from Piraeus/Heraklion daily (approx 9 hour sailing)
Online booking is available via the above links.
All have large modern ships with comfortable lounges, bars and restaurants. At peak times (weekends and holidays, throughout the winter as well as the summer) the ferries can be overcrowded and people clamour to claim sofas and chairs as beds! Various cabins are also available and should always be booked in advance at peak times.
Ferry prices start at around 20 Euros (special winter offer 2007/2008) one way for deck class per person.